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Sewing Fundamentals

This Library Guide will support your learning experience with the Alkek One Making with Fabric Course.

Thread Fibers

  • Soft, warm, absorbent, dyes well
  • Shrinks with high heat no "give," deteriorates over time
  • Extra Long Staple sews best
  • Properties vary depending on the "finish"
  • Highly elastic with good recovery, won't shrink, strong
  • Not coor-fast, will melt under low hear if not 'bonded"
  • Long-lasting, strong, and inexpensive
  • Withstand moderate heat, won't shrink, minimal "give"
  • Not as soft as cotton or silk, less absorbent than cotton
  • High shine, dyes beautifully, fade-resistant, highthighlyrbent
  • Weak, not ideal for seam construction
  • Best used for decorative stitching and embroidery
  • Fine, flexible, strong, good elasticity, lint-free
  • Dyes well, color-fast
  • Great for hand-sewing and fine tailoring, expensive
  • Soft, durable, warm
  • Wicks away moisture
  • Beautiful texture, dyes well, good elasticity, will shrink and loses strength when wet

Thread Make-Up

Ply: This is a strand of yarn. You'll often see threads described as 2-, 3-, and 4-. The above image depicts a 3-ply thread. 

3 ply thread
 

Core spun yarn/thread: This type of thread is composed of a "core" of continuous filament polyester that is wrapped with either cotton or polyester yarn, like a cocoon. These combined threads provide qualities from both fibers, with the outer fiber providing the finished "look." For instance, a polyester core with wrapped cotton has the strength of polyester, but the finished look of soft cotton. This creates a stronger, more durable thread. You commonly see this type of thread used in the construction of Jeans. 

Corespun Thread

 

Corded Thread: When multiple "threads" are twisted together, they create a "corded thread." These are commonly described as 4-, 6-, and 9-ply threads. As you can imagine, a corded thread will be stronger and thicker. You commonly see this used in leatherwork, shoe-making, etc. 

Corespun Thread

 


Thread Twist: The direction the thread is spun defines its twist. It can either be twisted in a 'Z'direction (left twist) or an 'S' direction (right twist). A 'Z' twist is suitable for single-needle sewing machines. An 'S' twist thread isn't commonly used in home sewing machines.

Thread Twist